Sunday, August 13, 2006
BY CODY KENDALL for the Star-Ledger

Bright, sassy and full of fun, CoccoLa made a splash when it opened last month on a Route 206 site probably best known as the former home of Jasper's restaurant.

The energy in the new 9,600-square-foot building's main dining room bubbles over from a gleaming open kitchen fronted by a raw bar, galvanizing servers and creating a pleasant buzz among patrons. The space has a healthy blush from a color scheme in shades of ruby and eggplant that adds to its aura.

Start off with a glass of fizzy Prosecco ($8) or a cocktail ($10), perhaps the Jersey Breeze to cool the effects of summer heat with its combo of Hypnotique, Bacardi cocoa and fresh orange juice. Then consider the menu that ranges from classic Italian to new American and a hint of Asian for broad appeal.

There's house-made pasta, including eggplant ravioli ($23) served with good-size bits of Maine lobster in a tomato basil butter sprinkled with toasted pignoli nuts. This neatly updates the traditional ravioli concept into an entree that provides both comfort and stimulating taste sensations.

If that's your ticket, you might also be intrigued by a mustard-crusted pork tenderloin ($22) in a Port wine reduction, with just enough of an edge for a little extra excitement, or tuna Sicilian ($25) sparked by a relish blending four different levels of sweet and pungent: onions, golden raisins, olives and capers.

The name CoccoLa is reminiscent of Eccola, a longtime fixture in Parsippany, and that's no coincidence. Restaurateurs Janet and Nino Tamburin are behind both places. At CoccoLa, the chef is Keith Hanks, whose résumé includes stints at the Frog and the Peach in New Brunswick and Petrossian in Manhattan. He must feel right at home on his new job because CoccoLa has a polished New York City sparkle. Happily, its prices show some moderation in keeping with its Somerset County location. Although the only entrees available for less than $20 are the chicken Marsala, piccata, Francaise and Parmigiana variations ($19), you have plenty from which to choose for less than $25. On the pasta roster, meanwhile, gnocchi goes for $18 and whole wheat penne with broccoli rabe and plum tomato weighs in at $19. Should you be budget-conscious, you could focus your meal that way.

If you want to splurge, there's no shortage of opportunities, especially with the seafood that takes the lead among the appetizers. We watched with interest as the Eccola special seafood tower ($55), which serves a minimum of two people, was carefully balanced by a server and placed on a nearby table. It brimmed with an array of shrimp, scallops, oysters and other denizens of the deep, appealingly arranged. The really ambitious can always dive into the CoccoLa Grande ($99) version of the tower, which serves a minimum of four.

Are you going it alone? Try "tuna, tuna, tuna" ($13), served tartare, sashimi and in a spicy roll, or a seafood salad ($11) featuring shrimp, fresh calamari and a scallop.

There are four salads available, including a roasted Bartlett pear ($9) with arugula, toasted pecans and goat cheese, while an escarole and white bean pairing ($7) is among the several soups offered.

The beautifully presented portions are quite large, whether you're ordering the roasted lamb loin ($27) over a vegetable lentil ragout or the lighter sake-marinated halibut with a sesame hoison glaze. That being the case, you probably wouldn't bother with the side dishes that include sauteed escarole ($6), wild mushrooms ($7) or grilled asparagus ($8) unless you had a special yen for one of those. But you must try the truffle-scented CoccoLa fries ($8), presented in a cone of faux newspaper, a la fish and chips. Even if you order dishes that seem incompatible with fries, like the tilapia with cucumber and tomato salsa ($20), you should request these crisp delicacies tinged with just an elusive hint of truffle flavor. And skip the catsup.

The wine list is extensive (Robert Bohr, a partner and wine director at Cru in Manhattan is CoccLa's wine consultant). There are selections from all over the globe, even Slovenia, which offers the Golden Hill Chardonnay ($35). The list starts at $30 a bottle and rises steeply from there, though there are a number of wines by the glass beginning at $8 and going up to $15. Another option is red or white house-made sangria, $7 a glass or $20 a pitcher.

Of course I expected to see tiramisu among the desserts, which are $7. I'd say it's gotten to the point where nine out of 10 New Jersey restaurants offer it. The twist here is that the mousse is flavored with Kaluha. But there are also some different choices, including a blithe lemon torta with an invigorating raspberry/Merlot sorbet and a chocolate mousse tart brightened by cinnamon meringue. Whipped cream-topped specialty coffees, such as the cafe truffle ($9), involving Chambord and creme de cocoa are also available to wrap up the evening, along with the usual espresso ($3) and cappuccino ($4), as well as dessert wines and grappas starting at $8.

The place is exactingly supervised by manager Joseph Mastrella, who seemed to be everywhere (including the kitchen, since he's a trained chef) during our visit, and we noticed that everyone on staff was willing to pitch in wherever they were needed. There were a few minor stumbles; our bread didn't arrive until after our appetizers were served, and the staffer who brought it couldn't tell us what the spread was. It turned out to be a very good hummus.

It was amazing, however, to see how smoothly everything else was running at CoccoLa so soon after its opening. Its sparkle makes it a great place to beat the heat.